Can Fearful Fido Be Festive?

Can Fearful Fido Be Festive?

Written by Amanda Rietheimer, CDBC, CPDT-KA

The upcoming holidays bring new feelings for many families as we reconnect with our loved ones. While it can be exciting to get together in large groups with our family and friends, this often tends to be very scary for our furry four-legged friends. If Fido is nervous about any variation in his environment, adding visitors or other dogs can pose a challenge to future gatherings.

Here are a few tips to help Fido be festive, too:

  • Find enrichment toys that Fido likes to engage with when only your immediate family is present.
  • Start now, well before the holidays. Start with one guest, working your way up to multiple guests in the house.
  • Put Fido up in a room/crate before a guest arrives at the house.
  • Set up Fido’s enrichment toy, such as a snuffle mat, near his dog bed or mat about 15 to 20 feet from the guest.
  • Have the guest sit down before bringing Fido out on a leash.
  • Make sure Fido is calm when you enter the room and treat him, keeping your distance from the guest.
  • If Fido is barking, growling, lunging, or showing signs of stress do not proceed.
  • Have the guest toss treats towards Fido.
  • Check in with Fido often, if he is showing signs of stress such as growling, snapping, barking, shaking, or pulling away, end the session and put Fido back in his crate or other room and contact a Certified Dog Behavior Consultant or veterinarian for help.
  • If Fido is eating treats tossed to him, walk him on the leash to his bed and have him engage in his snuffle mat.
  • When Fido looks at you or your guest and is calm, toss treats to him. It is important that we are tossing treats and never hand-feeding him, as we want him to be comfortable staying at a distance from our guest.
  • For big gatherings, install gates for safe areas for Fido to relax. Our guests can then move around comfortably and not worry about where Fido is.
  • Advise all guests that Fido likes to be a part of the party from a distance. Being pet by guests is not enjoyable for Fido. If guests cannot listen, then put Fido back in his crate/room, where he can be safe and not escalate in fear. Give Fido an enrichment toy to enjoy while he is in his crate.
  • Have buckets full of treats that can be tossed to Fido over the gate to him.
The Perfect Howliday Card

The Perfect Howliday Card

Tips for Snapping the Best Holiday Photo

Written by Hannah Burke Garbett, ACDBC

If you’ve ever tried to include your dog in holiday photos, you know it’s not as easy as it sounds! A photoshoot can be a stressful environment for dogs. They’re often asked to remain stationary for long periods, sometimes with unfamiliar props and surrounded by flashing cameras and bustling people. The good news is a little prior training and some gradual acclimation can go a long way toward helping your dog be the star of your holiday greeting cards.

Start at Home

If you would like your dog to sit, lie down, or stay still for your photos, start training well in advance of your scheduled photo day.

Dogs learn best by starting in a low-distraction environment and with generous positive reinforcement. Now is the time to enroll in a training class to ensure your dog has plenty of time to practice before the big day.

Themed props and outfits can add something special to holiday photos. Make sure to introduce your dog to the props and costumes beforehand and practice any poses involving the props at home.

Check the Location

Now that you and your dog have practiced posing, it’s time to take it on the road. If you are using a new location for your photo shoot, you’ll want to schedule a few visits in advance to practice with your dog.

Check the lighting in your shoot location. Dogs don’t understand a camera’s bright flash and will often squint or move away. Try to pick a location with plenty of natural light to avoid using a flash.

Evaluate distraction levels and try to choose a location that will set your dog up for success. Choosing an area off the beaten path could mean all the difference for a dog that’s easily distracted by other people and dogs.

The Photo Day

Help your dog burn off excess energy by scheduling a long walk or playtime a few hours before your shoot.

Pack extra high-value treats along with you, and don’t forget to reinforce your dog’s good behavior.

Bring along your squeaky toy and have a helper stand directly behind your photographer with it to focus your dogs gaze towards the camera.

Watch out for signs of stress and give your dog plenty of breaks to sniff and decompress in between shots.

Embrace imperfection, sometimes the “outtakes” are actually the best photos in the end.

Smile and have fun!

Avoiding Those Ghoulish Halloween Mishaps

Avoiding Those Ghoulish Halloween Mishaps

Written by Robin Keene

Halloween is a spooktacular time for many. The most social dogs may love children and joyfully engage in goblin gatherings. No matter how social or timid your pet may appear to be, holiday precautions are always the sensible and safe thing to practice. Here are easy ways to keep your tail-waggers safe… and kids, too!

Safe Places and Happy Bellies

Give Spot plenty of exercise on Halloween day to decrease any over-stimulation the night may bring. Recognize signs of stress. If your dog is uncomfortable, remove her from the situation and put her in a safe place.

Keep your pets calm. If Buddy is anxious around a lot of activity or strangers, put him in a quiet room during the peak trick-or-treat hours. Only the most social and stress-tested pets should be allowed near children. Consider placing a barrier, such as a pet gate at the front door for extra precaution. Be sure all your pets are wearing their IDs and are microchipped in the event they decide to hunt goblins without your permission.

No sweet human treats! We love yummies and so does your best friend. But these can cause canine tummy distress or worse, a fatality. Chocolate is extremely toxic for dogs, and dark chocolate is the worst. Other ingredients like xylitol, found in many low-sugar candies, is a serious risk to your pet’s health. Keep candy out of Fido’s reach. Avoid the temptation to spoil him with a little nibble. Instead, have nutritious dog treats on hand or make homemade treats with dog-friendly ingredients.

If you like the idea of spoiling Champ with his own treats, consider some of the following ingredients: Oatmeal, peanut butter (free of xylitol), pureed pumpkin, apples, carrots, sweet potato, or wheat flour. Cranberries and blueberries are a yummy addition, too.

Jack-o’-lanterns can be easily knocked over by dogs or cats causing burn injuries. Keep them out of reach, even if you use battery-operated candles or décor. And while pumpkin is a good dietary supplement in many cases, it can still cause stomach upset. Check with your vet if you are unsure. Also, be mindful of wires or electrical cords, which are chewing temptations, especially for young pups. Avoid glow sticks! They can break with a bite and are very toxic!

Know the location and contact number of the local emergency vet and have the ASPCA Poison Control Center listed in your contacts: (888) 426-4435.

Considering Costumes

Benji might love dressing up for any occasion. Or, it might be downright stressful. Start with patience and try to understand your dog. Here is a little guidance:

Don’t wait to begin working with your dog. Even a month before the big day isn’t too soon, especially for the fur kid new to the whole costume gig. Most dogs will need some time to get used to being in a strange and amusing get-up.

Start with a lot of encouraging sniffing. Sit with the pup on the floor and allow her to warm up to the smell (washing it beforehand is probably a good idea). Little by little begin dressing her. Maybe just a paw for a few seconds and repeat. Lots of small treats for each little progression will help her overcome any ambivalence she likely has.

Continue a bit every day, increasing how the number of costume pieces with which you dress your dog. Then begin increasing the time, from mere seconds to building up to a minute or two at a time. 

When she’s decided she’s willing to humor you and participate in this odd human request, don’t wait until the big day for her to wear the costume for a long period. Do this days before…10 minutes, 15 minutes, 30 minutes, an hour, and so on. And provide lots of yummy rewards along the way! Finally, she’s showcasing her way to becoming a grand prize winner!

That said, please be mindful that not all dogs have the disposition to wear anything but their birthday suit. Things to bear in mind:

  • Make sure the costume fits properly: It shouldn’t restrict movement or be so loose that the dog gets tangled up or trips.
  • Be sure your pet can see properly, breathe easily, and bark.
  • Remove pieces that can easily be chewed off to prevent a choking hazard.
  • Look for small signs of discomfort such as scratchy tags. (We all know how annoying that can be.)
  • Most importantly, don’t force it. If Doodlebug hates it, let him sport a cute bandana, and give him a treat and a boop on the nose for still being the best dog, ever.

*For creative Halloween costume ideas for pets and parents, click here.

Prevent Your Dog From Dashing Out the Door

Prevent Your Dog From Dashing Out the Door

Written by Amanda Rietheimer, CDBC, CPDT-KA

Doors are one of the most exciting places for a dog and difficult places for an owner. As a Certified Dog Behavior Consultant (CDBC), door greetings is one area that seems to be the most challenging to tackle for both the dog and the owner. Sometimes the dog is jumping all over our guest, or in extreme cases, the dog is charging the door when the doorbell rings, barking and lunging aggressively or even trying to escape.

No matter what dog behavior you are struggling with at the door, training starts with you first and your daily interactions. I tell all my clients not to focus on the behavior that frustrates them but rather on what behavior they want to see in the future. Any owner who is experiencing aggressive behavior at the door with their dog will need to seek the help of a CDBC to guide them through properly controlled greetings.

If your dog is a young exuberant puppy that is jumping on guests or dashing out the door, the first step is to put your dog up in a room or crate before your guest arrives. Practice calling your dog to you when the doorbell rings and treating them before putting them on a leash for the times when visitors come unexpectedly. Once on a leash, put your dog in a secure location, such as behind a gate or in another room, and then let your guest in. If you have another person in the house, ask them to open the door while you stand 20 feet from the door with your dog. Ask your guest to stay at the door while you work with your dog to do a controlled greeting.

A controlled greeting means you are treating your dog for focus and calm attention on you. When he is not pulling on the leash to get to your guest then take two to three steps forward and stop. If your dog is calm and not pulling, we treat them and continue in the same manner. If they are pulling, we wait for them to stop or go backward two to three steps until our dog is calm. We continue with this forward and backward-stepping approach depending on our dog’s calmness and pressure on the leash.

The goal is to walk your dog up to your guest without any pressure on the leash and have a calm dog. Our guest should have treats to help reinforce the dog for staying on the ground and not jumping. If our dog jumps, again, we call the dog back to us and move backward away from our guest. Our dog should not come off leash until we have enough practice on leash and no jumping or dashing behavior.

Reducing Leash Reactivity: The Engage-Disengage Game

Reducing Leash Reactivity: The Engage-Disengage Game

Sound familiar? The four “F”s of fear: Many dogs struggle to stay relaxed when they see another dog, a person, or a specific environmental stimulus, and end up reacting with an intense stress response. Stress responses can be categorized into fight such as barking, lunging), flight (such as avoiding, hiding), freeze (such as cowering, shutting down), or fool around (such as jumping, mouthing) behaviors.

The Engage-Disengage Game is helpful for dogs that respond with a “fight” or “fool around” response. These dogs often become over-aroused quickly and end up hurling themselves toward the trigger out of fear, anxiety, or frustration. Unlike socially savvy dogs that self-interrupt frequently in order to keep interactions fun and safe, these “fight” or “fool around” dogs have immense difficulty disengaging from the trigger in order to self-interrupt.

The Engage-Disengage Game decreases a dog’s stress around the trigger and teaches the dog the peaceful coping skill of self-interruption. This ability to disengage and self-interrupt is similar to the practice of mindfulness if you are at all familiar with Buddhism, yoga, or elements of the field of psychotherapy.

Manage Exposures, Decrease Reactions

Before diving into a training plan to treat the issue of stress response, first, learn about and try some positive management methods to decrease how often your dog is reacting to the trigger. Every time your dog practices an undesired behavior outside of training time, he is going backward in training and will continue to feel stressed or anxious around the trigger. Try to decrease the number of undesired reactions he is having each day. (Review the article Managing Leash Reactivity to confirm your understanding of these concepts.)

If your dog has bitten or caused injury to a person or another animal, first consult with a certified positive reinforcement trainer or board-certified veterinary behaviorist to make sure you are implementing the necessary safety precautions.

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The Engage-Disengage Game: Reinforcing New Feelings and Desired Behaviors

Reducing aggression, reactivity, or fear means desensitizing and counter-conditioning your dog to like the trigger gradually, and teaching an alternate response behavior. The Engage-Disengage Game uses positive reinforcement methods and provides a structured way to reduce a stress response and train a safe and appropriate behavior instead.

There are two levels to the game. The first level rewards the dog for engaging with the trigger when he is not showing the stress response, which builds positive feelings toward the trigger. The second level rewards the dog for offering the alternative behavior of turning away from the trigger, which is a behavior incompatible with barking at, pulling toward, or biting the trigger! The illustration below explains how to play the Engage-Disengage Game. This illustration can also be downloaded at www.ChoosePositiveDogTraining.com.

Game Prep

Before beginning the Engage-Disengage Game, gather the following supplies that you will need:

  •  High-value treats
  • Clicker
  • Humane harness or collar

Practice fast U-turns by luring your dog by placing a treat near or on his nose or by tossing “find-it” treats on the ground as you both change direction quickly (walking toward the treat). Take a break if you notice even subtle stress signals (displacement behaviors) such as excessive lip-licking, yawning, or scratching.

The Engage-Disengage Game is based on these scientific principles:

  •  Desensitization
  • Counter-Conditioning
  • Differential Reinforcement

Level 1: Engage

  1. Start at a safe distance away from the trigger, a place where your dog is not reacting. Be quiet and still so that your dog notices the trigger on his own.
  2. At the precise moment your dog ENGAGES by looking at the trigger, CLICK.
  3. When your dog turns his head toward you after hearing the click, feed him a treat. If your dog reacts or does not turn back to you after the click, move further away from the trigger to reset at an easier distance.

The goal of Level 1 is to succeed with at least 3-5 repetitions in a row at the same distance before moving on to Level 2. A successful repetition is when your dog turns back to you immediately after the click. If the trigger is moving or changing in intensity, keep playing Level 1 until your dog has calmly looked at or engaged with the trigger from every direction. THEN move on to Level 2.

    Level 2: Disengage

    1. Again, let your dog notice the trigger, but this time wait 1-5 seconds to see if your dog will offer to look away from the trigger on his own. If your dog is fixating on the trigger for longer than 5 seconds, go back to Level 1.
    2. At the precise moment your dog DISENGAGES by looking away from the trigger, CLICK.
    3. After the click, feed a treat. If your dog reacts or is not turning back to you after the click, move further away from the trigger to reset at an easier distance.

    The goal of Level 2 is to succeed with at least 3-5 repetitions in a row before moving 1-5 steps closer to the trigger. A successful repetition is when your dog disengages with the trigger comfortably on his own. As you move closer, keep playing Level 2 if the trigger is not moving or changing in intensity. If the trigger is moving or changing in intensity, go back to Level 1 at the new distance.

    Each time you play the Engage-Disengage Game, play for 1-5 minutes, and then take a break. If your dog is ready and eager, you can repeat this pattern.

    A graphical representation of the Engage-Disengage Game from Choose Positive Dog Training

    How Close?

    Remember to keep your goals realistic. For example, if your dog is triggered by other dogs, it is important to acknowledge that he may not be destined to be a “dog-park dog.” Some dogs may simply prefer the company of humans more than other dogs, or may not enjoy physically interacting with dogs that have different play styles. Some dogs may have more introverted social personalities. Going to the dog park or walking through a busy crowd of people can be like a rave or punk concert that your dog is just not interested in attending! Instead, he may prefer to snuggle down next to you on the couch — like when you settle down to read a good book or watch a movie.

    Remember to take training at your dog’s pace and to make things easier if he is showing stress signals. In many cases, working your dog up to walking by another dog or person calmly on the leash is a perfectly acceptable goal for both of you. As a responsible dog parent, it is important to have expectations that respect your dog’s capability and personality. Remember to take training at your dog’s pace and to make things easier if he is showing stress signals. Keeping your dog under threshold will actually help him learn faster and give you longer-term results.

    If it is appropriate for your dog to engage in polite greetings and physical interactions with the trigger, you can still play the Engage-Disengage Game by clicking for more interactive “engage” behaviors, such as sniffing the trigger or targeting a safe area of the trigger with nose or paw. A certified positive reinforcement trainer or board-certified veterinary behaviorist can help you determine if greetings and physical interactions are appropriate for your dog, and can also assist in creating an individualized greeting plan that prioritizes safety and success.

    Proof Positive

    Using positive reinforcement methods, like the Engage-Disengage Game, help your dog become less anxious and fearful of the world. The Engage-Disengage Game can come in handy for many situations. I have used it to teach dogs how to remain calm and happy around a new baby in the home; around other dogs or people they are scared of; around other dogs or people they love so much that they want to jump and mouth; around bikes, skateboards, doorbells — and the list continues.

    Science and research in dog training have revealed that intimidation, pain, or the threat of pain are simply not necessary and cause more problems in training an aggressive, reactive, or fearful dog. Instead, using positive reinforcement methods like the Engage-Disengage Game help your dog become less anxious and fearful of the world, and teach him that he has the ability to choose another behavior that is both fun and safe instead.